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Turning Normal Soil Into Awesome Soil
I'm turning part my property from a 2nd growth temperate rain forest into an orchard and a large vegetable garden several acres in size. I live beside a river, and half my land is flood plain, and the other half is situated on higher land. The flood plain, which I am farming, is sandy loam for many feet down, while the soil in the upper half of the property is rockier, which I will leave in its natural state for a wood lot.
I had the soil tested for nutrients and came away a little disappointed. I expected the glacier sourced, unfarmed soil would be loaded with all the nutrients and minerals needed to grow anything suited to the climate. While large trees thrive, it is less than ideal for gardening. Calcium and magnesium and trace minerals are on the low side, the PH is acidic, the cation exchange capacity is low, and it is low in organic matter. In my internet travels I came across an article on how any soil can be improved or restored to better than virgin conditions by the addition of nutrients and minerals, even farmed or washed out soil that will hardly grow weeds. There is a balance of nutrients and minerals that is optimum for growing plants that was discovered by scientists at the University of Missouri back in the 1930's. WW2 stopped research, and after the war the large chemical companies convinced farmers that the best way to farm was large doses of NPK. The earlier research was soon forgotten while farmers eventually burned out their soil by overfarming, with heavy applications of chemical fertilizers making up for the mineral depletion of the soil. Unless you replace the minerals in the soil, they are used up and gone forever. That is why the mineral content of vegetables is 1/3 of what it was 100 years ago. I have planted over two hundred fruit and nut trees which are doing fairly well due to my improving the soil directly in the planting area. However, I would like to evolve the orchard into agriforestry (see link - http://www.redfernfarm.com/cia.htm#title ), and also improve the soil in the large dedicated garden areas. Using the soil analysis, I had www.soilminerals.com provide a prescription for improving my soil to that "perfect" balance of minerals to grow the highest quality produce possible. My soil prescription included the addition of rock phosphorus, calcium, potassium, sulphur, magnesium, copper, manganese, boron, humic acid (leonardite), zinc, glacial rock dust, and sea salt. In addition they recommended biological innoculants and manure which I will apply separately as I have a ready supply on the property. The local ag dealer was able to take the prescription and make me a custom blend with all the minerals in the correct quantities, although they spec'ed a 3tonne minimum. I required 6 tonnes anyways for the initial 4 acres I intend to intensively garden. Each tonne cost $900. In the garden areas I spread the mix and tilled it in. In the orchard areas I had orchard grass I didn't want to destroy by tilling, so I used a plug aerator, and aerated the orchard areas with the plug holes going down approx. 3 inches. Only the rock phosphorus requires tilling in, as the other minerals are water soluable. I'm hoping that the plug aerator will be a good compromise versus tilling. I did go over the area twice so there are twice as many holes in the grass than normal for the phosphorus to fall into and the roots to reach. Being cautious, I only applied the prescription at 1/2 strength. In a month or so I'll do more soil testing and see what the effect was. I'm expecting strong healthy crops that are resistant to insects and blights, with exceptional taste (the minerals add flavour) and healthiness. The fertilizer is considered organic due to coming from natural sources. In the garden area I am also adding dried kelp meal which contains many trace nutrients and natural growth hormones, as it is locally available in bulk fairly cheaply. What I have learned so far is that to upgrade the soil in a small farm requires a lot of work and money. This probably wouldn't be currently economically feasible on a large farm, as the costs to restore minerals would be prohibitive, even when the crop is sold at organic prices. However, since my gardens will be feeding my family, it is worth the money and effort to have the highest quality foods. I will have excess produce that I can sell at the farmer's market and hopefully earn back my investment in minerals. After the initial application, I expect subsequent applications of these minerals to be much smaller in scope. I'll report back with the soil results and gardening results in a few months. |
Re: Turning Normal Soil Into Awesome Soil
Several acres garden for your family sounds a little large - just sayin'
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What can I say, I've got a big family:)
As I mentioned, I will sell the excess at the farmers market. I've got 200 plus fruit and nut trees, and will probably put in another 200 or so. I should have a little extra to sell...Eventually when I retire, this is what will keep me busy as well. |
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Sounds like a good plan.
The more organic material in the soil before the application of minerals will insure that the minerals STAY in the soil, rather than washing through to the subsoil. Left to their own devices, plants will naturally remineralize soil over time. Interestingly, the weeds that grow on one's property are those that are efficient at harvesting the minerals that are deficient in that soil. So, composting weeds is an important part of maintaining a mineral balance. Many plants have roots that will go more than 20 feet deep for water and minerals - pulling both up to the surface. Annual grains have no such roots. |
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I've always read an orchard should not be on the flood plane but higher ground to avoid the cold air that settles in these areas. Or perhaps not so much of a rule if you are further south?
What type of root stock are you using? With the semi-dwarf types I've planted a handfull of, one only needs to fortify (and later fertilize and water) a smaller area around the trunk. |
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The nut trees range from hazelnuts to hickories, and there is no dwarfing varieties to my knowledge. My nut trees are all grafted from high quality stock to seedling rootstock. I will eventually grow seedlings from the grafted trees, as I have read that grafted nut trees only average 75 years life. I won't live to see them die, but I wouldn't mind leaving some kind of legacy. Seedling origin nut trees can live hundreds of years of course. In regards to improving the soil in the orchard and not just around the trees, please read the link I provided regarding agro-forestry. It is quite interesting... |
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Hate to break it to you,your soil sucks because of your climate.
Soil makes soil. Your going to want to start thinking hydroponically. |
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I have similar sounding property....in middle america(4 season climate)..higher rocky ground...river vally lower silty soil...we just did a soil test and took it to the state extension center then fertilized to suit the needs
we tried last year a test plot planting of fruit trees......the wild life (deer) ruined almost every tree scraping their antlers last fall........ the test plot was 10-12' tall trees of all varietys of fruit i am going to try a test plot this year of 3'-4' nut trees......black walnuts and pecans......and add some willows along creek to prevent erosion just saying....for me the wild life vs the trees wasnt something i had expected or planned for |
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If you bothered to comment intelligently on what I posted by optimizing the balance of nutrients, you would recognize what I am trying to achieve. In fact I was anticipating your response as a professional farmer to give some educated insight to me as to what you do to improve your soil. Or do you just dump the NPK and pesticides on your monocrops and hope for the best yield without care for the quality (meaning nutritional value) of the crops? I guess you would make the most money that way... Also, please explain how soil makes soil? That makes a lot of sense... |
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I have had many a bad experience with deer. Try keeping sheep which will attract predators. My neighbor started raising sheep, and since he did thet the deer have disappeared. Of course cougars bear wolves and coyotes are around now.. |
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my question (since you have dealt with this before) is will i need to protect the nut trees also, I can stand a 10% loss but a 100% loss is a waste of time? Of course we will protect EVERY fruit tree we plant this year |
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If your area was conducive for producing crops,it would already be doing so.
Good soil,produce good crops,which produce more soil.(where do you think soil comes from?) Your soil will naturally return to its original state very quickly. Which why i pointed you in the hydroponic direction. Which is super effecient and easy. Add in aquaponics if your one of those paranoid organic people. And for your information farmers spend mind numbing amounts of time working on soil health-they dont spend a weekend afternoon jumping around on websites and drawing up conclusions on how a few hundred square feet of their backyards should be farmed and how all commercial(actual) farmers dont have a clue. |
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Give it a rest CF. Skid has the land he has and is looking to improve the soil. Sure it isn't as good as on the prairies but he lives where he lives and is probably in a growing zone of 6+ while you are likely in a zone 2. There are plenty of crops he can grow that you can't with your good soil and colder weather. Some things we have control over to a certain degree like soil.
-------------------------- Skid I don't know too much about the mineral blend you are applying but seeing as how you are on a flood plane in a high rain fall area with sandy soil my biggest recommendation is to add as much organic matter as possible. I can't remember the exact numbers but I think it was that organic matter can hold about 900% of it's weight in water while clay can only hold 50%. High organic matter content will prevent leaching of the minerals as much as possible. Organic matter will also absorb and hold dissolved minerals. In the orchard, I would just keep top dressing, and sheep aren't too bad an idea eventually either. Grasses plus ruminants are one of the reasons why the prairies have such good soil. Also like you mentioned, the cover crops are a good idea. Do whatever you can to build the soil and stop erosion. |
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Skid, heh heh, Nice response to Canuckfarmer's posts.
I envy your acreage and hard work to improve production. Good luck with your land. |
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terra_preta
Terra preta ("dark earth" in Portuguese) refers to expanses of very dark, fertile anthropogenic soils found in the Amazon Basin. It owes its name to its very high charcoal content. It is also known as "Amazonian dark earth" or "Indian black earth". Terra preta is characterized by the presence of low-temperature charcoal in high concentrations; of high quantities of pottery shards; of organic matter such as plant residues, animal feces, fish and animal bones and other material; and of nutrients such as nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), calcium (Ca), zinc (Zn), manganese (Mn). It also shows high levels of microorganic activities and other specific characteristics within its particular ecosystem. It is less prone to leaching than surrounding soils. Terra preta soils are of pre-Columbian nature and were created by man between ca. 5000 BC�1450 AD. The soil's depth can reach 2 meters (6 feet). Thousands of years after its creation it is reputedly known as self-regenerating at the rate of 1 centimeter per year by the local farmers, and they seek it out for use and for sale as valuable compost. - - - - In a nutshell, the Amazin' Amazons took poor soil, unsuited for agriculture, and transformed it in an organic powerhouse. What makes it so good? No one knows exactly. In the case of Terra preta, the only possible nutrient sources are primary and secondary. The following components have been found: 1. Human and animal excrements (rich in P and N); 2. Kitchen refuse, such as animal bones and tortoise shells (rich in P and Ca); 3. Ash residue from incomplete combustion (rich in Ca, Mg, K, P and charcoal); 4. Biomass of terrestrial plants (e.g. compost); and 5. Biomass of aquatic plants (e.g. algae). Possible explanations: [] Low temperature charcoal from slash and char (instead of slash and burn), allows for a wider range of water absorption and mineral entrapment. Higher carbon content than surrounding soils is also evident. [] Organic residues from bones (fish and animal) and plant wastes provide a matrix for complex micro organisms. [] Pottery shards may provide structure, in a soil mostly devoid of rocks. Aeration of the soil may be improved by its presence. |
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In regards to time spent researching soil, I have spent many dozens of hours researching how to improve my soil, not a weekend. My area of focus is on the leading edge of soil health and productivity. Real farmers and vegetables growers like Steve Soloman have commented positively on the methods I am using, and no, it wasn't my idea. I am just following in the steps of very educated researchers and growing professionals. Which is why if you were a real farmer you might understand what I am trying to do. My soil grows trees and vegetables adequately as is. I have even won events at the local fall fairs. I am just trying to make my soil the best it can be. Unlike you I have actually posted my plans in public. While not farming sections of large mono crops of cereals like you purport to do, I do have several acres of market gardens and orchards. I am not making fun of large commercial farmers. As you've mentioned before, they feed the world, albeit with crops that are less nutritious than they could be. Any educated person knows that soils aren't what they used to be. Minerals are depleted, organics are missing due to NPK overuse. If you don't recognize this you are ignorant of soil dynamics Your explanation of how soil makes good soil is laughable. Minerals replace thenselves through osmosis? If you take it out and don't replace it it is gone forever. Like I said, do you even know what a soil test is? Can you post an example of what you test for, and what you have done to improve your soil? Peace |
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In regards to scraping, each lone tree makes a very accessible tree to scrape on, with no fears of getting the antlers hung up on adjacent trees. So yes, deer love all types of tree farms... |
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I have plenty of wood on my property so a charcoal supply could be easily achieved. I also have a PTO powered wood chipper that could grind the charcoal into the smaller pieces required for this method. |
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Big trees don't actually require a lot of minerals. That's why you came away disappointed. Big trees look impressive but they're mostly carbohydrate, AKA Air, Water, and sunshine.
Mineral content of soils is mostly affected by rainfall. I'm sure you've come across William Albrecht in your studies. When Albrecht took a survey of all the soils across the US, he found the most fertile soils were in the west, where rainfall was lower. Less rainfall = less leaching of soil minerals. The native grasses in the Great Plains were much higher in protein and minerals, which is how they could support millions of great big roaming herds of buffalo Anyway congrats on studying soil health from the mineral perspective. It will definitely pay off. |
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I admire Skid's scientific approach to the problem. My approach is just to wing it. I apply rock dust and compost every year and the results have been good. My only complaint is that it is hard to produce enough compost for even a small garden.
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My immediate neighbors are also professional farmers who derive their livelihood on the same type of soils/land. As I mentioned before, mineral/nutrient leaching is a concern, but there are ways of minimizing it with winter crops and soil organics. Also, prairie soils may be good when virgin, but after a few years of production they also need supplementation. Even Canuck Farmer admits as much... |
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Terrific thread. Thanks skid...
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Do yourself a favour. Lose the chip on your shoulder. We all get it. You are Super-farmer and nobody can compare. Thank you for feeding the world. We are forever in your debt. Is your head all big and swollen enough now? |
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+1,000,000
I think he just likes to hear himself pontificate (that means condesend and offer unwanted advice that does not advance the subject matter CF). Empty barrels sure make a lot of noise. Someday, maybe somebody will knock that chip off for him. All the best. |
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You keel me!!!!!! hahahaa:biggrin: |
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Here's a pic with my two oldest kids with some produce from one of the gardens last year. I'm hoping with a properly balanced mineral soil to have better results...
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Getting itchy fingers here too. We've got a way to go yet however. In this part of the world, anything sensitive to cold has to wait until June 1, minimum. Frost during the first week of june is typical, even after a bunch of hot weather in may which usually sucks me in to early planting, which I later regret. June 7 for planting sensitive plants is even better.
Peas, radish, onion, lettuce and beans are good early starters though, and I love those early summer salads with every meal. |
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